Prusa I3 MK2 PSU cover with rear-exit NEMA-15 socket

// 2016dec05 - fiveangle@gmail.com

• fixed minor errors by MilanNXT (accidentally had degree 2-degree offset in NEMA-15 socket relocation, causing issue with interface of PSU shelf cutout + nut trap length)
• relocated NEMA socket to far left corner to prevent conflict with PSU mains crimp connections (MilanNXT version had centered, so required removing crimp lugs and twisting bare wires into PSU - see comments on my make of his design: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:272849
• re-oriented switch to normal up-on/down-off configuration instead of forward-backward
• fixed switch height hole size too big (present in original Prusa design files)
• disabled ridge cuts and badge elements (see "fiveangle" comments below to uncomment if you want to enable them)

Print instructions

Category: 3D Printer Parts Summary

// 2016dec05 - fiveangle@gmail.com

• fixed minor errors by MilanNXT (accidentally had degree 2-degree offset in NEMA-15 socket relocation, causing issue with interface of PSU shelf cutout + nut trap length)
• relocated NEMA socket to far left corner to prevent conflict with PSU mains crimp connections (MilanNXT version had centered, so required removing crimp lugs and twisting bare wires into PSU - see comments on my make of his design: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:272849
• re-oriented switch to normal up-on/down-off configuration instead of forward-backward
• fixed switch height hole size too big (present in original Prusa design files)
• disabled ridge cuts and badge elements (see "fiveangle" comments below to uncomment if you want to enable them)

  Print Settings

Printer: Original Prusa i3 MK2

Rafts: Doesn't Matter

Supports: Yes

Resolution: 300 micron

Infill: 20%

Notes:

3 or more shells, 4 top/bottom layers, supports from build platform only.

Original part is PETG so if you print in PLA, you may experience a crack near the left nut trap, so be careful (see make of this thing by @patrizio). ABS worked no problem.

When installing the parts, you must orient the socket to move the connectors on it furthest away from the PSU connectors.

You need to loosen the PSU connectors closest to the socket and push and bend them furthest away from where the socket will be, then tighten (the connectors are copper, so should be relatively pliable). If you still don't have enough room, remove the blue connector and flatten the retaining lips on them with some pliers, then re-insert, using the additional length to bend the connector out of the way furhter. If all else fails, you can remove the connector, strip the insulation, and insert directly into the PSU but that shouldn't be necessary (that was required on the original, which was the inspiration for this remix).

Enjoy !

-=dave