Tin lamp

I named the third lamp I have constructed as "Tin lamp nach Art des Frimmels", referring to a small part of Swedish design history. The lamp was originally published at thingieverse and here you will find all you need including several additional shade themes.

I found the excellent shape computations for the cylinder not on wikipedia, but, (with my fathers help) in an Austrian pocket calendar from 1970. In those days, apparently people carried useful things in their pockets!

The lamp measures around 47cm of height and 12 cm in diameter. The lamp is a "snap/push together" construction.

Basically, you need to print a lamp base (two 2-material .3mf, around 10 hours in total), attachment parts (a single material .3mf, around 2.5 hours) and the lamp shade of your choice (two copies of a .3mf files, 4-16 hours in total depending on the theme of your choice). If you have problems with MMU material changes, you might want to consider using my good old temperature correction script for the wipe tower, as found in: http://www.frimmel.se/print3D/ (the script patches the gcode to better filament change and wiping temperatures).

Please see the screen dumps of the setup and verify your setup looks alike (eg for some newer PrusaSlicers I have seen the wipe tower move around, just move it back into place if so). Please note that the print bed (for i3mk3 at least) is quite filled up, especially true for the "antarcticphoto" theme. Clean it properly all to the very edges before the print. Also, consider using the 7x7 mesh bed leveling (found within the settings menu).

This lamp was designed using blender, freecad-daily, gimp and inkscape. If you would like to see my other designs, just search for "frimmel" at https://www.thingiverse.com.
Please be aware that my designs are generally CC non-profit. Please respect this decision, as I constructed the objects and drew all the patterns myself.

Before you print this lamp, be sure to actually read the printing instructions.

It might be noted that both the "antarktis" and the "antarcticphoto" themes are based on real photographs from the antarctic peninsula. That is, the penguins are the real thing :-)

Print instructions

The various parts in brief

The leg of the lamp base is constructed as four identical and interlocking parts in order to keep printing time and cost down whilst using the MMU. Furthermore, the lamp base will actually be much stronger when printed this way. And it's more fun to construct as well :-) The lamp foot and socket holder parts should be printed in the same type of materials as the leg, as together they make up the entire base of the lamp.

I have printed the lamp base using various fill materials, including ColorFABBs Brassfill (no longer available, unfortunately), FormFuturas Terracotta-fill and Fillamentums Timberfill. With regular PLA the construction might become almost a bit loose. If you consider this a problem, by far the simplest solution is to use a drop of glue. Or, try to scale the leg parts up by 1-3% (you can easily do this in the slicer). If you still have problems, then please visit the original thingieverse publication (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4267962) where I have added some custom parts for such rare cases.

For the lamp shades including the lower and upper ring parts, you should use transparent PETG or equivalent AND you should use the "powder coated" plate if you own one, as this will render a "pearl" look to the transparent surface. Most lamps I printed using Filament-PMs range of PETG, which I think really looks nice. Then again, with Filamentums CPE-HG100 some shades will look fantastic! The good thing is, there are only a few material changes so the shades are printed much faster than you might expect. The lamp shade should, with the exception of the "antarcticphoto" theme, be sliced with layer 1=0.2mm and all other layers 0.3mm.

Please adjust temperatures and material parameters for your print - e.g. the temperatures I have setup in the .3mf might be wrong for you.

Parts to print

Lamp base (2 materials, print time 6 hours + 4 hours)

pelare_WOOD_STONE.3mf
lampfäste_lampfot_WOOD_STONE.3mf

Lamp shade attachment parts (1 material, 2.5 hours)

ringar_listerY102_xy0.4mm_z0.3mm_PET.3mf

Lamp shade theme "Europeendless" (3 materials, print time 2 hours)

skärmsida_EUROPEENDLESS_PET_PET_PET.3mf

Lamp shade theme "Tenn50" (3 materials, print time 2.5 hours)

skärmsida_TENN50_xy0.4mm_z0.3mm_PET_PET_PET.3mf

Lamp shade theme "Vind" (3 materials, print time 2 hours)

skärmsida_VIND_xy0.4mm_z0.3mm_PET_PET_PET.3mf

Lamp shade theme "Finland" (2 materials, print time 2 hours)

skärmsida_FINLAND_xy0.4mm_z0.3mm_PET_PET.3mf

Lamp shade theme "Hund" (4 materials, print time 2 hours)

skärmsida_HUND_xy0.4mm_z0.3mm_PET_PET_PET_PET.3mf

(I used "Glow In the dark" for the dogs - a nice effect that kids might love! However, don't forget that glow in the dark sticks better to the print bed than regular PETG so take care when removing the shade.)

Lamp shade theme "Antarktis" (5 materials, print time 2.5 hours)

skärmsida_ANTARKTIS_xy0.4mm_z0.3mm_PET_PET_PET_PET_PET.3mf

Lamp shade theme "Antarcticphoto" (5 materials, print time 8 hours)

skärmsida_ANTARCTICPHOTO_BLÅ_RÖD_BRUN_GUL_TRANSP_xy0.4mm_z0.1mm_PET_PET_PET_PET_XT.3mf

(Please note that the .3mf for "Antarcticphoto" is set up for BLUE, RED, BROWN, YELLOW and TRANSPARENT colors for mmu channels 1-5, respectively for a photorealistic rendering. I used PETG from Filament-PM in this print. And yes, I took the actual photograph during an antarctic visit a long time ago)

About electricity

The lamp is set up for an E14 lamp socket found for example at the "Kjell & Co" shops in Sweden (https://www.kjell.com/se/produkter/hem-kontor-fritid/belysning/lamptillbehor/hallare/lamphallare-ojordad-e14-p39361) but available world wide, e.g. search ebay for "socket e14 lamp". Obviously, you will also need to buy an electric cable including a connector (I bought mine at "Clas Ohlson" in Sweden).

You must ENSURE not to overheat the printed parts so take good care of which lamps to use. Personally, I use LED lamps of no more than 3W in my constructions.

Assembly

Please refer to the set of attached assembly photographs when reading these instructions.

Shades

Before you start, examine the outer rim sides of the shade parts. Any particles or deformations on these surfaces (even a tiny filament blob) can make the mounting very hard, so first carefully remove all such obstructions. I recommend to slightly sand all these surfaces (sides and rims) using grain 50.

Gently and evenly push one of the side bars onto the shades from the TOP side and down (it is designed that way), thereby locking the two shade halves together. Keep the shades flat on a table and push the side bar with your thumbs. Usually, it will be a bit of resistance so be careful. If you take your time it should work out, however, you can easily break the shades if getting impatient. The side bars should be positioned with an equally sized gap to the top and to the bottom of the shades.

If the side bar seem to get stuck, carefully remove it again and sand both its top side, and the top and side of each shade edges for some seconds or more using coarse grain (e.g. grain 50). If this doesen't help, consider printing the side bars with a slight increase in width (e.g. Y-scale factor 101-103 in the slicer setup).

Once you finished positioning the first side bar, carefully prepare the second bar the same way as the first (e.g. sand in the same way). Then, bend the shades and hold them together with the edge pressed to the table, and carefully push on the second bar from the TOP downwards. Don't get stressed, just keep the edges of the shades as flat to the table as you can with one hand and push the bar with the other.

With the two side bars in place, the shade will have the correct shape. Now, start pushing the top ring part onto the shade. Look carefully where the indentations are, and push only a small part at a time, always monitoring your progress. Take special care at the points where the sections meet, as they are important, and sometimes a bit tricky to fit. If you do it slowly, don't get agressive, and sometimes consider to untighten a few millimeters, it will work out.

Now, do the same with the lower ring (the three holders at the inside of the lower ring will later be attached to the lamp base).

If you still have some Haribo Bears left after the printer assembly, maybe this print would let you consume one or two of them (this is an inofficial addition to Prusas assembly instructions)

Base

Join the four vertical parts (the "leg") pair wise and lock them in place by sliding length wise until they align (it might be a bit tight). Then, join the resulting two pairs the same way. It might be a bit of resistance, so consider pushing towards a flat surface. Also, look carefully that you removed all of the support material. Sanding should normally not be needed.

Push the cable first through the foot part, then through the vertical part (the "leg"), and finally through the printed socket holder. Attach the cable to the E14 socket part (be aware: only do this if you are experienced with electric components and you are allowed by local regulations to do so), screw the socket onto the printed socket holder. Attach the printed socket holder to the top of the vertical part. Only at this point, push the vertical part onto the actual foot while simultaneously lightly pull the electric cable end to keep it short. Attach the lamp shade holder to the printed socket holder (the three bars will later fit into corresponding holes on the printed lamp shade lower ring) and add the lock part. Now add a lamp, snap on the shade and plug it all in.

For MMU prints, I recommend using the "De Luxe/Grand Luxe/Gran Turismo Selector" (item https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3608229 at thingieverse) and the replacement IR sensor holder (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3554066).

Last but not least, please don't forget Gretas hard work even these days where the virus might be your main focus.

How the lamp shade modifiers are set up

As an example, this is a list of all parts and modifiers in "skärmsida_EUROPEENDLESS_PET_PET_PET.3mf":

skärmsida.stl *** color 1, main shade object

europeendless_MODIFIER_A.stl *** color 2, modifier

europeendless_MODIFIER_B.stl *** color 3, modifier

skärmsida_MODIFIER.stl *** color 3, surroundings